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In addition to the nassau, foursomes can play for points on
the side. This adds drama and it's a lot of fun. You can
start for a dime a point, and then whichever team is behind
can double the points on the nine holes you're playing.
After the front nine, the price of the points reverts to
where it was when you started. Points can be doubled more
than once, so you would do well to be cautious as to where
you set the price per point to begin the match. If you
start at a quarter a point and double the points three
times, you're playing the last hole for two dollars a
point. You can lose all five points on a hole and that
adds up to $10 real quick. And that's just one hole.
Points You Can Play For
1. LOW BALL--The player who has the low ball on any
hole wins a point for himself and his partner. Conversely,
the opposing players both lose a point.
2. HIGH BALL--If a player has the highest score in
the foursome, he loses a point for himself and his partner
on that particular hole. The opponents both win a point.
3. BIRDIE--When a player makes a birdie, he wins
two points (birdie and low ball) for himself and his
partner. This assumes, of course, that there is just one
birdie on the hole.
4. PROXY--The player closest to the pin in
regulation. This is self-explanatory. As an example, the
player whose second shot on a par four is the closest to
the pin wins a point for himself and his partner. The shot
must come to rest on the putting surface.
5. SNEAKER--This point was learned the hard way many years
ago from an old friend at Lincoln Hills Golf Club in
Ludington, Michigan. If you get up and down from off the
green for a par, you win a point for your team. If you're
short of the green in two on a par four and chip up and
sink your putt for a par, that's a Sneaker. This is a
counterbalancing point for players who don't hit the greens
in regulation as often as their competitors. It's a great
equalizer for anyone with a good short game. 6.
If you're playing handicaps, make sure it's clear on the
first tee that any birdie that you get--with the aid of a
stroke--counts the same as a natural birdie; otherwise,
you're getting hustled.
It's important to keep the stakes modest unless the players
have plenty of money and like the excitement of competing
for high stakes. There's nothing wrong with that if you
know what you're getting into on the first tee and you're
comfortable with the amounts involved. If you like
excitement and tension, you'll experience all you want when
you step up to a downhill five-foot putt that's worth a
hundred or two. For most of us, that's too much drama.
Don't ever allow yourself to be embarrassed into playing
for more money than you can afford to lose comfortably;
some guys who are lucky enough to have plenty of
dough--usually inherited or gained by a pragmatic
marriage--like to try and high dollar other players on the
first tee. Swallow your pride and let him know you aren't
going to play for that kind of money.
For great golf training
"Desire, Belief and Patience"
What do desire, belief and patience have in common? They are all important ingredients of success in anything that you do or try to accomplish. If you want to shoot lower scores, take an honest look at the above recipe to see what you could be doing better.
Let’s start with desire. How strong is your desire to lower your score? On a scale of one to ten, with ten being the highest, if you are not doing everything under your control to improve your golf, your desire is less than a ten. That’s OK as long as you realize that your success will be limited according to the actions you are or are not taking.
If you claim to desire scores lower than what you are willing to work for, you do not have a desire. You have a wish. A wish will never be strong enough to attain the scores you supposedly desire. You have two choices. Either change your goal and accept higher scores, or take more action to lower them. Why frustrate yourself if you only have a wish and not a strong desire?
If you truly have a desire and are backing it up with positive thoughts and actions, you have to believe that your efforts will pay off in the end. Otherwise, why do the work? It is important to believe in the processes that you are working on to improve. If you have selected legitimate processes that will result in lower scores, don’t keep looking over your shoulder at your scores until you have mastered the process.
Always keep in mind that the outcome is merely a by-product of the process. Keep focusing on improving the process until your lower scores become a reality. What happens in many cases is the golfer gives up on the process before the results appear, and blames it on the process not working. Rarely does the golfer blame himself for not working the process.
Instead of always looking for new techniques, training devices or equipment to try out in the hope of lowering your score, have patience and master what you are working on. When you plant a seed in a garden, you don’t dig it up before it has a chance to grow and bloom. Patience is a very important part of the learning process and golf.
When you play golf, belief and patience work together. Before attempting any golf shot, you must totally believe that you can make the shot if everything goes right. Otherwise, change your shot selection. You must believe in your percentages of success for making the shot and have the patience to trust the process.
You won’t make all of your shots, but if you are patient and believe in your ability to make your share of shots, you will be a lot more successful and accomplish your desire to shoot lower scores.
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Your Lie Often Determines Club Selection
Golf Potpourri
By
Mac Stevenson
Your Lie Often Determines Club Selection
After a long winter of golfing inactivity, it’s important
to review certain mental approaches to our game. Something
as simple as the proper club selection—in relation to the
lie that the golfing gods have given us—can be elusive
during early rounds.
In many respects, golf is like gin rummy—you have to play
the hand you’ve been dealt. Don’t try and take more than
the golf gods are willing to give you. Examine your lies
ever so closely—even in the fairway—before you decide on
the shot you want to play.
When you hit your drive in the fairway on a long par five,
don’t automatically pull the 3-wood out of your bag for the
second shot. Check your lie. If it’s a good one, go ahead
and hit whatever club you want. But if it’s a tight lie
and you think you might have trouble making good contact
with a 3-wood, go to a more-lofted club like a 5-wood. The
distance you lose won’t be that important and a missed shot
with a 3-wood could prove costly.
During PGA tournaments on TV, many golfers watch the pros
hit their drivers off the fairway and they can’t wait to
get to their course and try the same shot. Don’t do it.
Unless you have an exceptionally good lie, it’s most
difficult to hit a driver off the fairway. Under normal
circumstances, the risk far exceeds the reward on this
shot. It takes a highly skilled player to use a driver
from the fairway.
Trying to hit a high pitch shot from a tight lie is asking
for trouble. The tighter the lie, the tougher the shot.
Most sand wedges have a wide flange on the bottom and it’s
next to impossible to get the club under the ball from a
tight lie. When feasible, you’ll be better off playing a
pitch and run shot. The pitch isn’t a hard shot from a
good lie, but it’s a demon when the ball is sitting down.
Lies in heavy rough are harder to judge and it’s best to
err on the side of caution. As a general rule, don’t hit a
wood any lower than a 5-wood unless you have an unusually
good lie. And quite often you’ll be better off hitting a
lofted iron just to get back to the fairway.
Never try to hit a big fade or hook from deep rough; the
grass gets between the clubface and the ball and it’s
impossible to put much spin on the ball.
Another tough shot is when your ball comes to rest against
the first cut of rough adjacent to the putting surface.
Quite often the best shot you can play is with a putter,
making sure you hit down with a chop-type stroke on the
putt. This shot takes practice.
When you find yourself in a fairway bunker, the most
sensible shot in most cases is with an iron. If it’s a
long way to the green and your ball is sitting up in the
trap and you don’t have a steep lip to go over, sometimes
you can hit a lofted wood from fairway traps. But usually
it’s best to play the percentages and hit an iron back to
the fairway.
Even in the fairway, you can get unlucky and find your ball
in a deep divot. In my opinion you should get a free drop,
but that’s not what the rules say. Who said life is fair?
Your best shot is to use an iron and hit down and through
the shot. You have to hit it like a punch shot. Don’t try
and hit a wood or you’ll really mess up the hole.
There’s one place where you can determine what kind of a
lie you have, and that’s on the tee on par 3s. A lot of
players toss their ball on the ground and hit it. That’s
poor thinking. Put the ball on a tee and you’ll improve
you chances of hitting a good shot. You can set it very
low if you like, but the tee shot on par 3s is much easier
to hit off a tee than on the ground.
Keep your poise and use common sense when deciding what to
do with a bad lie, whether it’s in the fairway or rough.
Don’t try shots that you’re incapable of playing because of
an unlucky lie. The breaks will even out over the long
haul.
Get great golf videos here
Plan Proper Practice in Early Spring
By
Mac Stevenson
The days are getting longer and the sun has more authority;
before long the birds will be singing and the 2006 golfing
season will be upon us. Before you start playing this spring,
plan your season strategy for practicing. Give your practice
routine some serious thought and it will pay off over the
upcoming season.
If you enjoy practicing, it will benefit your golf game if you
occasionally take a day off from your 18-holes routine and
devote a full day to practice. How often you do this will
depend on how serious you are about your golf, and whether or
not you’re having big problems with your game.
Most players go to the practice area for one main reason: they
are playing poorly. A long practice session will prove to you
that you are physically capable of hitting certain shots the way
you want to. Just knowing that you can do it is more than half
the battle.
Before you embark on a long practice session on shots you’ve
been having trouble with, be sure you have the proper techniques
and fundamentals clear in your mind. Taking a lesson from your
pro or watching instruction videos should be all the help you
need. It’s counterproductive to work on a particular shot for a
half hour if you’re using incorrect fundamentals.
How long should a serious practice routine last? That depends
to some extent on your age and overall physical condition, but
45 minutes to two hours is long enough for most players. You
can hit just about every shot you’ll encounter on the golf
course while practicing for one hour.
Start your session with short shots that aren’t tiring and then
work on your putting. Finish with the full shots from the
driving range. And don’t become discouraged if you start
hitting some poor shots because you begin to tire; the same
thing happens during competition.
A word of warning: Just because you hit shots as well as you’re
capable of on the driving range, don’t expect that to
automatically carry over to the golf course. On the driving
range, you’re relaxed and in a perfect rhythm. This type of
practice will improve your game over the long haul, but don’t
expect any short-term miracles.
Shots you face during serious competition differ greatly from
those you hit on the driving range; nevertheless, multiple
repetitions on the range will eventually pay off for you when
you’re playing serious golf.
You’ll have unrealistic expectations after you’ve had a
productive session on the driving range--that’s just human
nature. Having those feelings of confidence, however, is a
positive. If you know that you’re capable of hitting a certain
shot the way you want to, eventually you’ll start doing it
consistently on the golf course.
Improvement in golf isn’t a rapid process; it’s an insidious
phenomenon that requires a lot of patience and practice and
playing. And even then, slumps will occur when you least expect
them. But so will periods when you play really well.
Long-term improvement on the vital short shots is assured with
diligent practice using solid fundamentals. This is true for
all players, regardless of age, strength, or skill level.
You’ll gain confidence in these shots as you have success on the
practice green and the golf course.
It’s an added plus that practicing chips, pitches, and sand
shots isn’t as tiring or time-consuming as the full shots. You
can hit about 60 of these crucial shots during a half hour of
practice, and it won’t tire you out too much before a regular
round of golf. If you’re limited on the time you can spend
practicing, this is the way to go.
Practice doesn’t help much if it isn’t accompanied with
enthusiasm. If you don’t like to practice, it won’t be of much
benefit to go through long sessions. But most players enjoy
some practicing; how much depends on your individual tastes. If
you set aside one day—every three or four weeks—for a long
practice session, your game will improve with time. Just don’t
expect it to happen overnight.
The Most Important Golf Club In Your Bag
by: Alfred G. McCall
What is the most important Golf Club in your bag? What is the most important Golf Club in "My" bag? Ask ten different people and get ten different answers. The driver, wedge, putter, 9 iron, different strokes for different folks.
If you were to ask my opinion, it would be "whatever club you are reaching for in any given circumstance". Suppose you believe, or have been told, that the most important golf club in your bag is your driver. That driver is no good to you 100 yards out from the green, and is just about useless on a par 3 executive course. What about that new putter? Is that any good to you in the tee box, and besides, what good is it to 2 putt on a par 5 when it takes you 7 to get there.
The bottom line is. Every tee box is different, every fairway is different, and every sand trap, fringe, rough, and green is different. You might play the same course week after week and the par 5 third is different every time to step into the tee box. It might be the tee location; it could be the pin placement. It could be other factors like wind, rain, sun, clouds, or fog. Everything changes day-to-day, hour-to-hour. It is not always easy. What club should I use? What is the most important club to me, right now?
Who cares what the most important golf club in the bag is. Lets Play. Remember that par 5 third I just told you about. It's Monday, the sun is shining, no wind, fairway is dry and short, time to "let the BIG DOG eat". Your drive is 250 yards plus another 30 roll...nice. Next a 5 iron brings you in close, you chip on and 2 putt for par. What was your most important golf club? They all seem to be pretty important to me. Now it is 3 days later, Thursday, same course, same hole.... or is it? It rained the night before, the fairway was not mowed, and it is cloudy with a 15 mph right to left wind. What is your most important golf club? You don't know. You play the same clubs and score a 9 or 10 instead of par. Why??
The answer is really quite simple. Go to any driving range and watch people hit balls, I would bet that 95% of the people at the range use their driver to hit most, if not all, of their shots. Then watch people when they get ready for a round of golf, they spend their time on the putting green while they wait to tee off. You might have noticed that there are about 12 other golf clubs in your bag.
Final analysis. Get a lesson, learn to swing properly, and use and get to know every golf club in your bag. They are all the most important golf club in your bag.
About The Author
Alfred McCall has a passion for golf, the love of his beautiful wife, Peggy, and a vice for politics. Look for his articles and musings here or at his website Crosshairgolf
Driving Basics
A lot of high handicap golfers can’t actually use a driver.
There are several reasons for this, the main one is they use too little loft. With male golfers it’s a macho thing, they don’t want to use a 12 degree driver because it’s “a bit girlie”. So the macho thing is to go for an 8 degree or 9 degree loft where they can’t actually get the ball in the air and they put too much side spin on it.
This is just one of those times when the golfer has to basically bite the bullet and he has to go for more loft. Why is his three wood good off the tee? Because it’s got more loft.
So a lot of golfers should actually change to using a 12 driver which would give them more carry, less side spin and then they would hit better shots. Many weaker and older people who can’t create fast club head speed need to go for more loft because they can’t actually create the spin that the faster swinging players and stronger players can. This is why the more lofted clubs can actually help them out.
So, if you’re someone who only hits the golf ball 180 yards to 200
yards off the tee and have trouble with the driver, get yourself a 12 driver with a little bit softer tipped shaft in it. Hitting the golf ball with that will give you more carry on your drive. It’s not a macho thing when you’re actually driving it down the middle and you knock it 30 yards past your playing partner. If he starts laughing at you because you’ve got a 12 driver, you just take the money off him and start laughing back at him!
www.SimpleEasyGolf.com
© Copyright 2005 Tigerwolf Limited and Brian Hall
**************************************************************
Brian Hall is a PGA Pro Teacher with over 25 years teaching experience.
He is also co-author and resident teaching pro of the Simple Golf Made
Easy e-course. For full details see www.SimpleEasyGolf.com
Download a FREE excerpt from the course at www.SimpleEasyGolf.com/ebook/ebook.htm
**************************************************************
By
Mac Stevenson
Match Club Selection to Lie
Many of us are guilty of deciding on what shot to play before we even get to our
ball, especially on our home course where we know every blade of grass. This can
become a bad habit.
In many respects, golf is like poker--you have to play the percentages on every
shot. Don’t try and take more than the golf gods are willing to give you. Examine
your lies ever so closely--even in the fairway--before you decide on the shot you
want to play.
When you hit your drive in the fairway on a long par four or a par five, don’t
automatically pull your 3-wood out of your bag for the second shot. Check your
lie. If it’s a good one, go ahead and hit whatever club you want. But if it’s a
tight lie and you think you might have trouble making good contact with a 3-wood,
go to a more-lofted club like a 5-wood. The distance you lose won’t be that
important and a missed shot with a 3-wood could prove costly.
During PGA tournaments on TV, many golfers watch the pros hit their drivers off
the fairway and they can’t wait to get to their course and try the same shot.
Don’t do it. Unless you have a very good lie, it’s difficult to hit a driver off
the fairway. Under normal circumstances, the risk far exceeds the reward on this
shot. It takes a highly skilled player to use a driver from the fairway.
Trying to hit a high pitch shot from a tight lie on the fairway is asking for
trouble. The tighter the lie, the tougher the shot. Most sand wedges have a wide
flange on the bottom and it’s next to impossible to get the club under the ball
from a tight lie. When feasible, you’ll be better off playing a pitch and run
shot. The high pitch isn’t a hard shot from a good lie, but it’s a demon when the
ball is sitting down.
Lies in heavy rough are harder to judge and it’s best to err on the side of
caution. As a general rule, don’t hit a wood any lower than a 5-wood unless you
have an unusually good lie. And quite often you’ll be better off hitting a lofted
iron just to get back to the fairway.
Never try and hit a big fade or hook from the rough; the grass gets between the
clubface and the ball and it’s impossible to put much spin on the ball.
Another tough shot is when your ball comes to rest against the first cut of rough
adjacent to the putting surface. Quite often the best shot you can play is with a
putter, making sure you hit down with a chop-type stroke on the putt. This shot
takes practice.
When you find yourself in a fairway bunker, the most sensible shot in most cases
is with an iron. If it’s a long way to the green and your ball is sitting up in
the trap and you don’t have a steep lip to go over, sometimes you can hit a
lofted wood from fairway traps. But usually it’s best to play the percentages and
hit an iron back to the fairway.
Back in the fairway, you can get unlucky and find your ball in a divot. In my
opinion you should get a free drop, but that’s not what the rules say. Who said
life is fair? Your best shot is to use an iron and hit down and through the shot.
You have to hit it like a punch shot. If you try and hit a wood, you’ll be taking
a chance of really messing up the hole.
There’s one place where you determine what kind of a lie you have, and that’s on
the tee on par 3s. A lot of players toss their ball on the ground and hit it.
That’s poor thinking. Put the ball on a tee and you’ll improve you chances of
hitting a good shot. You can set it very low if you like, but the tee shot on par
3s is much easier to hit from a tee than off the ground.
Keep your poise and use common sense when deciding what to do with a bad lie,
whether it’s in the fairway or rough. Don’t try shots that are next to impossible
because of an unlucky lie. The breaks will even out over the long haul.
Looking for tips on puttimg?
you will find some great putting-tips here
Improving Your Golf Balance
The need for balance for golf just sounds so simple and easy. As a golfer, you know that maintaining proper golf balance is a key to a good golf game. And it's more than just having the correct stance.
Optimum golf balance depends on three aspects: your visual perception, the signals from the inner ear, and signals from your muscles and joints. Sometimes these aspects get out of sync, causing a balance disorder. Most of which can be easily fixed with some simple ideas.
A lack of balance usually occurs when your head position changes, which is a good reason to keep your head still during your swing! How many times have you been told or noticed yourself that you looked up during your swing? Everybody wants to see where their ball is going and when you move your head and throw off your balance, the ball doesn't usually go anywhere. At least not where you wanted it to go. So, keep your head down and still and let your playing partners watch for your ball.
Migraines can attribute to a balance disorder. So if you have frequent migraines, seek medical attention. These headaches can affect your golf game in ways you may never have thought of. Not to mention being just plain painful and debilitating.
Also, don't go spending a fortune on new golf equipment hoping for better play before you check your medicine cabinet to see if any drugs you're taking affect your balance. The condition "ear poisoning" seriously affects your balance. Ear poisoning is usually caused by side effects of some medications. Always be aware of the possible side effects of any prescription drugs you may be taking. This is just good advice all the way around, let alone it having an effect on your golf game.
Diuretics can pose a problem as well. So if you're taking any of these and you start feeling dizzy, get medical help! Sometimes the dizziness can literally become a lifelong problem, so don't delay in seeking help.
If your golf balance is a little off in your game, you may want to do some simple exercises to improve it. Just kicking a ball around your backyard can help. You can also set up a little obstacle course and weave in and out of it to improve your balance. If you have kids, they will have fun with the course, too! Actually, they may even set up one for you!
You can also buy a balance board to help you with your center of gravity. You can easily make one yourself out of some scrap wood or you could find a nice one online or at a local fitness equipment store. These boards are challenging and fun to use. Once you can balance for an extended period on one, pick up a golf club. Then practice your backswing while balancing yourself. This will dramatically improve you golf balance.
In addition, working with flexibility exercises helps increase your golf balance by releasing muscle tension. Try some simple yoga stretches to help with loosening up tight muscles. Yoga or pilates can be a real benefit for the golfer. These types of exercises tend to create long lean muscles and promote flexibility. Just what the golfer needs for the right golf balance and a fluid swing.
Another useful item is a yoga ball or exercise ball. Even just sitting on one of these balls requires balance - so try using one for part of the day. Work up gradually until you can sit on the ball for 30 minutes at a time. These ball exercises can help you develop proper posture, increase the mobility of your lower back, and develop overall control of your body core. Improving your core strength and flexibility will help you develop the correct golf balance.
Since balance is fundamental to every aspect of your golf game, spend some time each day working on developing it. Who knows? You could find your swing and your score improving significantly, and who couldn't use that!
About the Author: Jason Griffin is a regular golfer who loves playing golf and trying to help other golfers, hackers and weekend players get more enjoyment out of the game. He is the guide behind the Guide to Golf Equipment - Your Information Source for Equipment Used for Golf. Get a little help finding the right golf equipment at http://www.guidetogolfequipment.com
John Toepel, Jr.
President and "Discoverer" of Concept Golf
You're probably wondering what makes Concept Golf's out-of-the-box
approach to learning the game of golf so effective. What makes the
Concept Golf philosophy and principles superior to the more well-
known, traditional teaching methods used by most golf instructors? Our
revolutionary philosophy and approach were developed by our founder,
John Toepel, Jr. The following biographical sketch will provide you
with an overview of John's extensive experience as a golf professional
and how his experiences served as the genesis for the Concept Golf
philosophy.
John was born and raised in Stevens Point, Wisconsin, where he began
playing golf at the age of eight. At the age of 12 he played in the
finals of the Club Championship, losing to a 35-year-old. The next
year, he lost in the quarterfinals. John won the Club Championship
each of the next 7 years.
John attended Purdue University, where he earned a degree in
Mathematics. After graduation, he spent two years in the Army as an
officer, including one year in Vietnam. All the while, John knew his
dream was to play on the PGA Tour.
In the summer of 1969 John won the Wisconsin State Open, beating Andy
North by one stroke. North went on to win the U.S. Open championship
twice.
John worked at the Philadelphia Country Club as an assistant
professional for three years. He also worked at the Jupiter Hills Club
in Florida before joining the PGA Tour in May of 1972.
John spent five years on the PGA Tour.
During his time on The Tour John had numerous top 5 finishes and
finished in the top 10 many times.
Here are a few of the highlights.
John finished 5th at Tallahassee in 1974;
John finished 5th in the 1975 Australian Open, where he played the
third round with Gary Player and played the last round in the last
threesome with Jack Nicklaus;
John finished 11th at Westchester in 1974, and finished 2nd in the
following Monday's Pro-Am where he competed with the same players;
During John's time on the Tour he had lessons from well-known golf
instructors such as Jimmy Ballard, Johnny Revolta, Norman Von Nida,
and Jim Flick.
In 1978 John and his wife, Linda, moved to Asheville, North Carolina
where he became the head golf professional at the Biltmore Forest
Country Club. It was during this time that John began to develop an
understanding of the philosophy and principles which later formed the
foundation of Concept Golf.
In 1984 John and his family moved to Raleigh, North Carolina where
John became the head golf professional at North Ridge Country Club.
John continued teaching people the game of golf, and the ideas and
philosophies behind Concept Golf continued to take shape.
Eventually John started to come to the realization that there were
actually very few "Pure" golfers. These are the players that never
think about their swing and try to fix it. They swing and play their
own game, never trying to model another player or players.
As John continued to think about these pure players, the game of golf,
the swing, and the most effective ways to teach them to others, the
Concept Golf philosophy became clear.
As he began using the Concept Golf approach in teaching his students,
he noticed that they improved more quickly, often immediately. He
also noticed that the improvements in their game were more permanent,
leading to a lifetime of fun golf.
This was when John realized that the philosophies and ideas behind
Concept Golf worked, and that his revolutionary new approach could
make golf less frustrating and more fun for golfers all over the
world. When John came to this realization, he decided to form Concept
Golf and share this philosophy and approach with golfers everywhere.
Over the last five years he has honed and distilled the essence of
Concept Golf. Today there are 1000's of excited and loyal Concept
Golfers and a growing number of Certified Concept Golf Instructors.
John has also implemented a collegiate program for Concept Golf and
has it being taught in a growing number of institutions of higher
learning.
John has set his sites on creating One Million Scratch Golfers by 2015
through the Concept Golf systems. He has no doubt he will achieve his
goal.
You can register for his tele seminar here it takes place on October 6th
register
You can visit his golf site here.
Concept Golf
Golf Potpourri
By
Mac Stevenson
Two Great Reads
With inclement weather approaching, it’s a perfect time to
recommend some winter reading. Author Mark Frost has written
two books--“The Greatest Game Ever Played” and “The Grand
Slam”--that are a must read for golfers. And they should be
read in the above-listed order.
The first is a vivid description of the game of golf and how
in evolved in the US and Europe during the late 1800’s and
early 1900’s. Frost is a splendid writer and the book reads
more like a novel than a nonfiction historical account.
Frost’s second book, “The Grand Slam” is about Bobby Jones
and how he influenced the game just before and after the
Depression. It’s really just a continuance of the “Greatest
Game” and is equally entertaining.
Both books capture the historical aura of the nation during
the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries; Frost
takes us back in time; it wasn’t that long ago.
Reading either book will give you a realistic understanding
and appreciation for how the game of golf has evolved in our
country. They are both engrossing books.
Two Crucial Clubs
Every golf club in your bag is important, but the putter is
the most significant and the driver is second in importance;
both are vital in forging the skill level of your game.
Don’t let anyone tell you it’s the player and not the club
that spells success or failure. Poorly matched equipment can
cause bad shots just the same as a lack of skill. Certain
putters and drivers are a fit for your physical and
psychological makeup.
If you’re having big trouble with your driver or putter, you
don’t have to buy a complete new set of clubs to solve the
problem. And with the prices on today’s clubs, that’s a
relief.
Don’t shy away from used clubs, particularly putters. It’s
good to own several putters so you can switch occasionally
when you’re in a slump. And it’s good to do business with
golf shops or pro shops that take trade-ins, especially if
you’re going to buy a new driver. It doesn’t hurt to
bargain.
However, be cautious about trading in a putter or driver
that’s an old favorite. Just because you’re in a slump
doesn’t mean you won’t want to go back to “Old Faithful”
after a short separation. Don’t divorce either your putter
or driver if you’ve had success with them in the past.
An important factor to consider before buying a new putter
or driver is how it looks to you as you address the ball. No
matter how highly advertised, if the club in question
doesn’t look good to you, don’t even consider it. If it
doesn’t look and feel comfortable when you address the ball,
your confidence in that club won’t be there when you need
it. How it looks to you is vital.
Putters are almost as individual as fingerprints; no two are
exactly alike. And very few golfers like the same type of
putter; there are innumerable brands and shapes. Drivers
tend to be more popular by brand; this is due primarily to
the advertising industry.
After you buy a driver or putter, be sure you have a grip
that feels good and fits your hands. For putters, there are
almost as many sizes and types of grips as there are
putters. Finding one that suits you psychologically is worth
some time and effort. A word of warning: Putter grips that
are made of smooth rubber tend to become slick and
uncomfortable in cold weather.
Grip size and texture on your driver is critical. Having a
grip on your driver that feels good and secure will add
greatly to your confidence before you start your swing.
Before buying a driver, you need to get sound advice from an
expert--preferably a pro who knows your game and swing.
Shaft length and flexibility are critical and must be
matched correctly to your game or you’re dead in the water
before you ever take a swing.
One liability on many new drivers--that manufacturers should
change--is that they have excessively shiny finishes on the
head, and that causes a problem from sun reflection on
bright days.
It’s fun to browse through large selections of putters (used
and new) when you have some time to kill. And remember, if
you find one that looks good but has a bad grip, it’s not
expensive to have it changed.
It will be worth your time to shop and find a driver and
putter that suit your game perfectly. And remember, the
proper shaft flexibility and length on a driver are
essential for you to play your best possible golf.
If you can drive it well consistently and sink some putts,
you’ll make it tough on the competition.
Golf Potpourri
By
Mac Stevenson
USGA Handicap System Needs Alterations
All golfers have an occasional hot round when everything is going
right and the putts are dropping. That’s fine and--for handicap
purposes--those rounds should be averaged in with the bad scores.
But to base your handicap on what it’s possible for you to shoot
is unfair and ridiculous. It should be predicated on what you are
likely to shoot, not what is within the realm of a possibility.
The USGA hierarchy--well-intentioned though they may be--has made
the handicap system way too complicated and unrealistic.
At the present time, your handicap is established on what your
potential is, not an average of all the scores you’ve actually
shot.
Your latest handicap rating is based on the lowest 10 of the last
20 scores that you’ve turned in. In other words, your 10 worst
scores are discarded and count for nothing.
This makes no sense. If you happen to have one hot round, it
lowers your handicap dramatically. And conversely, your poor
rounds are tossed in the trash and disregarded.
Every single round and each stroke should count and they should
all be averaged together in order to come up with a fair and
realistic handicap.
It appears that the present system is set up primarily to thwart
cheaters. Golfers that strive for unfair handicaps by posting
only their high scores can’t be stopped, but they will be
discovered over a period of time. And they can be ostracized by
the players who try to establish fair handicaps.
Weather becomes to much of a factor using the USGA method. By
throwing out the worst scores, they also discard most of the high
scores that are recorded on bad-weather days.
But all the players with handicaps don’t play on the same days.
If all the scores were counted, the windy days would even out
over a period of time and the weather factor would be more equal
for everyone.
Another rule the USGA imposes that detracts from realistic
evaluation is not letting players with low handicaps take more
than a double-bogey on any hole. That’s ridiculous. Every stroke
on every hole should count.
If every golfer records the total score from each round and
divides the total of those scores by the number of rounds, you’ll
come out with a fair handicap. Players shouldn’t be penalized for
having a hot round; however, those good rounds should be averaged
in with the worst and mediocre scores.
The USGA Handicap System manual resembles the fine print in
insurance policies; trying to read and understand this manual is
tough going indeed.
Here’s an example of how everything could be simplified: If your
course is a par 70 and you post your last 20 scores and divide
the total strokes by 20--and that figure is an average of
82--then your handicap should be a 12. It’s that simple.
The only other consideration on your home course should be which
tees (red, white, or blue) you use.
Where the USGA should be lauded is their system of rating
courses; this is most important for golfers who play on various
courses. And it takes a lot of skill and hard work to rate
courses fairly and intelligently. For their work in this area,
the USGA is to be commended.
While on the subject of handicaps, be very careful on the first
tee with handicap bets. The handicap system is based for play
over 18 holes of golf. If you have a seven handicap and your
opponent has a 14, make it clear on the first tee that you won’t
accept any press bets on holes where your competitor has a stroke
and you don’t.
If you come to the 18th tee and you have your opponent out and he
has a stroke and you don’t, letting him press is giving away your
hard-earned money. That’s the same as giving him a stroke-a-hole
on a bet. That’s a loser.
The USGA handicap system is too complicated and it’s not an
accurate reflection of your golfing skill.
Undoubtedly the people in charge are trying to regulate a fair
and useful system. But they need to simplify the entire process
and make the handicaps reflect an average of what players
actually shoot, not what their potential is.
Four Keys to Hitting a 460cc Driver
By Kevin M. Downey, President of Innovex Golf Company
The key to hitting the ball farther with the modern driver and golf ball (which
spins much less off of a flat face than balls of the past) is high launch combined
with a low spin rate. Our goal is to get enough spin to achieve lift, while
minimizing (hopefully eliminating) drag. Assuming that you have a driver with
enough loft, here are four things that you can do to increase launch and decrease
spin rate, thus increasing your distance off the tee:
1.
Tee the ball higher.
The old adage has always been that the top of the driver should be about halfway up the ball when
it is teed up. However, with a 460cc driver, I like to see you set the ball high enough on a peg such
that the top of the driver is no more than 1/3rd of the way up the ball. Of course, this means that the
standard 2 1/8” tee will not be long enough to accommodate. You will need a tee at least 3” in
length, but likely a little longer than this.
2.
Move the ball forward in your stance (towards your left foot for a right-handed
golfer).
The notion of playing the ball off of your left heel is no longer valid. We want to hit the ball on the
upswing, thus increasing launch angle and decreasing the ball’s spin rate. In order to do this, we
must move the ball forward in our stance. For some golfers, it will be enough to play the ball off
of your big toe, while for others it may be necessary to move the ball all the way up so that it is
positioned outside of your left foot. Experiment with different ball positions – but, whatever you
do, move the ball forward in your stance!
3.
Set up to hit the ball on the center of the face.
Most golfers set their driver on the ground at address. This results in a high percentage of driver
shots being hit on the heel-side of the face, especially when we tee the ball higher. Test your-self
this way: The next time you are at the range and set up to hit your driver, once in the address
position stretch your arms out and move the club up to the ball’s height. Notice where the ball is
going to contact the face of your driver? On the heel side – or possibly the hosel – of your driver.
This is a very common problem for golfers – and it’s an awkward adjustment. The solution is very
simple however. Instead of setting your driver behind the ball such that the center of the face is
aligned with the ball, move backwards a couple of inches (towards your back) such that the TOE
of your driver is aligned with the ball. Now do the test again. Stretch out your arms and pick the
club up to the ball’s height. Is the ball aligned with the center of the driver face? If so, put the club
back down and fire! If not, keep moving back until it is. Don’t worry that once you set the driver
down that it doesn’t align with the ball – the ball isn’t on the ground. It’s three inches above the
ground!
4
The driver is now a specialty club – much like a putter.
Our set-up, ball position – everything is
different from any other club in the bag. You shouldn’t be hitting the ball at the bottom – or apex –
of the golf swing like a fairway wood. The ball should be struck past this point – on the up-swing.
This will lead to a higher launch angle and lower spin rate – which is how we are going to hit the
ball farther than we ever have before.
© 2005, Kevin M. Downey
Innovex Golf, Inc. | 4745 W. 136th Street, Leawood, KS 66224 | 866-402-6097 | sales@innovexgolf.com
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